Healthy Aging Skin Care: Navigating A World of Options (part 2)
by Dr. Brie Woodruff
Continuing the conversation on skin care for healthy aging, let’s talk about some of my favorite key products and tips! If you missed part one of the blog, make sure you check that out here.
Key Products & Tips for Healthy Aging
Oral Water Intake: The skin is the body’s largest organ and, on average, is comprised of 64% water. Proper hydration helps to keep the skin plump and improves elasticity. Use this online calculator to get a general idea of how much water you should drink daily.
Vitamin C: Topical vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps prevent and treat changes associated with photoaging (aging related to sun exposure). It helps protect the skin from harmful UV rays and improves overall skin texture and appearance. Vitamin C can reduce the appearance of dark spots by blocking melanin production and has anti-inflammatory properties that can help control oil production (and help with acne). Vitamin C degrades quickly when exposed to light (and becomes ineffective). If using a serum, it is important to buy a shelf-stable, low pH (3.5) vitamin C that is stored in a dark bottle. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is a vitamin C derivative and is the most stable form of vitamin C. This can be purchased as a cream.
Side Effects: Can cause skin tingling/stinging, which is minimized with use of a daily moisturizer.
When to apply: In the morning, as the first step after cleansing and drying the skin
Retinoids: These are available in lower concentrations over the counter and by prescription for higher concentrations. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that work by increasing cell turnover and collagen production and reducing the tendency for cells to clump together and clog pores. Retinoids have powerful properties that lead to a smoother skin surface, help to even skin tone, decrease the appearance of dark spots, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Retinoids can also be an effective treatment for acne.
Side Effects: Do NOT use when pregnant or trying to conceive. Retinoids can cause excessive dryness and peeling of the skin, which typically diminishes with consistent use. Start low and go slow (and feel free to make an appointment to discuss treatment with retinoids and a potential prescription). Avoid exposure to the sun while using retinoids.
When to apply: Apply ONLY at night after cleansing and before applying a moisturizer.
Ceramides: Ceramides are lipids that make up about 40% of the epidermis. They are important for retaining the skin’s moisture and providing a defensive barrier against environmental toxins and pollutants. Ceramide levels in the skin decline with age. Using a ceramide moisturizer can help provide a protective barrier, prevent dryness, and helps to lock in moisture to keep skin moist, soft and supple.
When to apply ceramide moisturizer: In the morning, after cleansing and using vitamin C and before applying sunscreen. In the evening, after cleansing and applying retinoids.
Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is the key molecule involved in skin moisture and has a unique capacity to retain water. At around the age of 25, the amount of HA in the dermis of skin starts to decrease. Topically applied HA can have a significant benefit on skin hydration, increase elasticity, and improve the firmness of the skin.
When to apply Hyaluronic Acid (serum): In the morning, after cleansing skin and applying vitamin C and before applying a moisturizer and sunscreen. In the evening, after cleansing, before applying retinoids and nighttime moisturizer.
Sunscreen: Approximately 80% of facial skin aging is attributed to UV-exposure. There are 2 types of sunscreens: chemical and physical. Chemical sunscreens use dozens of ingredients that, when absorbed, react with the skin to absorb UV rays and convert them into energy before they can damage the skin. Physical sunscreens are made of two ingredients: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They sit on the skin to deflect and reflect harmful UV Rays. Because physical sunscreens are thicker, they can often leave a white cast on the skin. This can be minimized by choosing a tinted mineral sunscreen, which have iron oxide in the inactive ingredient list. This can help minimize the white cast. In addition, iron oxide protects against the damaging effects of blue light (which is emitted from computer and phone screens and TVs). I recommend a mineral-based sunscreen (physical) with iron oxide (chemical) if you spend time in front of screens
When to apply: In the morning as the last step in the skincare routine (before makeup, if applicable). Reapply every 2 hours when in the sun.
Key Takeaways:
Hydrate the skin by drinking plenty of water daily.
Wash with a gentle cleanser twice daily (type of cleanser depends on skin type)
Moisturize the skin with a moisturizer containing hyaluronic acid during the day and with ceramides at night.
Retinoids: Start low and glow slow. Only apply retinoids at night and avoid sun exposure while using.
Sunscreen: I cannot stress this enough! This is one of the most important things you can do daily to prevent photo damage, skin cancers and photoaging. Wear sunscreen EVERYDAY. YES, even in the Pacific NW!
To learn more about healthy aging skin care or for help or guidance on building a specific routine for your skin care concerns: Schedule appointment with me, Dr. Woodruff, either an in-person or virtual. Bring your current products with you to the appointment!
See you in clinic,
Dr. Woodruff
References:
Bernstein EF, Sarkas HW, Boland P. Iron oxides in novel skin care formulations attenuate blue light for enhanced protection against skin damage. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Feb;20(2):532-537. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13803. Epub 2020 Nov 18. PMID: 33210401; PMCID: PMC7894303.
Bravo B, Correia P, Gonçalves Junior JE, Sant'Anna B, Kerob D. Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence. Dermatol Ther. 2022 Dec;35(12):e15903. doi: 10.1111/dth.15903. Epub 2022 Oct 21. PMID: 36200921; PMCID: PMC10078143.
https://www.gigacalculator.com/calculators/water-intake-calculator.php
Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. doi: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327. PMID: 18046911; PMCID: PMC2699641.
Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013 Apr;4(2):143-6. doi: 10.4103/2229-5178.110593. PMID: 23741676; PMCID: PMC3673383.
Yousef H, Alhajj M, Sharma S. Anatomy, Skin (Integument), Epidermis. [Updated 2022 Nov 14]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2024 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK470464/